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KMID : 0984920120140010029
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Journal of Skin Barrier Research
2012 Volume.14 No. 1 p.29 ~ p.38
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Cosmetics to help Skin Barrier Function
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Nam Gae-Won
Kim Eun-Joo
Jeong Choon-Bok
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Abstract
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Cosmetic products were developed formulation of various ingredients materials. Moisturizers are expected to increase skin hydration and to modify the physical and chemical nature of the surface to one that is smooth, soft, and pliable. Smoothing of the surface can be observed immediately after application of a moisturizer as a result of the filling of spaces between partially desquamated skin flakes, The measurement of hydration in the surface layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC), gives important information on the biophysical properties and function of the skin barrier such as feeling soft and flexible and looks smooth and healthy. We found the effects of polyols, such as glycerol and butylenes glycol, were influenced directly the hydration increase rate in the SC previously. Most of polyols, glycerol was mainly influenced the hydration. The individual standard curve was obtained on response to glycerol concentrations. The converted glycerol concentrations of products were appeared repetitive and reproducibility. These results suggest that the hydration of the SC standardized regardless of external variation and individual skin condition can explain detailed skin state variation. As evaporation is one of the major physical changes by emulsion, evaporation patterns are especially interesting phenomenon in cosmetic science. In practical interest, evaporation occurs from complex liquid mixtures that applied on the skin and arouses structural and property changes. We developed 11 different parameters for analyzing evaporation of applied emulsion film. To utilize evaporation parameter for practical emulsion development, we tested o/w emulsions. Because conventional o/w emulsion has numerous components, we designed simple formulations for comparative analysis. The results show that different oil type affects evaporation patterns.
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KEYWORD
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Skin barrier function, Moisturization, Standard water contents, Dynamics, Evaporation, emulsion
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